Ramsey Electronics Satellite Radio FT146 User Guide

2 METER FM 5 WATT  
TRANSMITTER KIT  
Ramsey Electronics Model No.  
FT146  
Here's a simple hard-working transmitter that's ideal for  
repeaters, Fox-hunts, remote bases, Packet - you name it! Why  
tie up a whole transceiver to just use the transmitter? Fun and  
educational to build - you'll be on-the-air in an evening!  
Direct, true FM for excellent voice and data quality.  
Both Data and mike audio inputs  
Solid 5 watt RF output - add our PA-146 for 40 watts  
Crystal controlled with 146.52 MHz crystal included  
Built-in test points for easy tune-up. Align with any  
digital multimeter - tuning tool included, too!  
Runs on 12 - 14 Volts DC at less than 1 amp  
Easy assembly and hook-up  
Informative manual answers questions on theory, hook-  
ups and uses - enhances resale value, too!  
Add our case set for a finished 'Pro' look. Cases match  
all Ramsey products  
Clear, concise assembly instruction carefully guides  
you to a finished kit that works the FIRST time!  
 
Ramsey Publication No. MFT146  
Price $5.00  
KIT ASSEMBLY  
AND INSTRUCTION MANUAL FOR  
FT146 FM RECEIVER  
KIT  
TABLE OF CONTENTS  
Introduction to the FT146 .............. 4  
Circuit Description ......................... 5  
Parts List........................................ 6  
FT146 Assembly Instructions........ 8  
Testing and Alignment................... 19  
Power Supply Considerations ....... 21  
Verifying RF Power Output............ 21  
Troubleshooting Guide.................. 23  
Enclosure Ideas............................. 24  
Microphone Considerations........... 24  
Crystal Requirements.................... 25  
Parts Layout Diagram.................... 26  
Ramsey Kit Warranty..................... 27  
RAMSEY ELECTRONICS, INC.  
590 Fishers Station Drive  
Victor, New York 14564  
Phone (585) 924-4560  
Fax (585) 924-4555  
FT146 3  
 
INTRODUCTION  
Two meter FM has been around for years, but never with the popularity that  
is enjoyed today. In the old days, hams snooped around the local two-way  
radio shop in search of an obsolete taxi cab or police radio. These radios  
were in the 150 - 174 MHz business band and were easily moved down into  
the ham two meter band. On the chance that a UHF 450 - 470 MHz radio  
was found, it was modified for the ham 440 band. Since there was no  
business band near the 220 MHz ham band, no radios were available for  
conversion - and that's why the 220 band never became popular!  
Well, its been a long step from then to now, and not a pleasant one for ham  
radio. We've lost a portion of our 220 band and gave up our ham radio  
market to the Japanese. Gone are the radio mavens who could modify, in an  
evening, the old Motorolas, GEs and RCAs. Modern day hams don't use  
modified commercial radios, they operate rigs designed expressly for  
amateur use, and who can blame them? For a half a kilobuck (that's $500 in  
regular talk) you can get a full band synthesized 30 watt radio that looks like  
a fine piece of audio gear! Good deal but something is missing, and that's the  
pride in building, understanding and learning. You see it really doesn't take a  
whole lot of smarts to unpack a box that was last sealed somewhere in the  
Orient. Building your own rig is one of the most satisfying and rewarding  
experiences you can have - and that's what ham radio is all about! This little,  
easy to understand two meter FM transmitter is our attempt to provide the  
ham community with a simple, fun to build kit that you'll enjoy operating,  
especially when you tell the other operator that the rig here is home-brew.  
Most Ramsey Electronics can be classified as "Skill Level 1" if we use the old  
Heathkit guidelines for ease of assembly. That means that our kits are  
intended to be successful for first-time kit builders. This FT146 FM  
Transmitter is best regarded as a "Skill Level 2" project, (or least Level 1.46!)  
and should not be taken lightly, even by experienced, licensed radio  
amateurs.  
Still, this step-by-step manual is written with the beginner in mind, because  
we are well aware of the fascination Two Meters and its maze of repeaters  
holds, which means this could be your very first kit project. To be honest,  
we'd like to see first-time builders start out with an easier kit such as the  
Ramsey HR-40 forty meter all-mode receiver before assembling the FT146,  
but we are confident that you can construct the FT146 successfully if you  
follow this manual carefully and patiently.  
Before beginning the project or even studying the circuit description, it's  
worthwhile to develop some prior respect for how much transmitter is packed  
onto the circuit board. The dozen semiconductor devices (diodes, transistors  
FT146 4  
 
and IC chip) give the equivalent of about 130 or more transistors and diodes.  
And, in addition to 13 inductors, a crystal and the various plus and jacks, there  
are over 60 capacitors and resistors. Surely, all that should result in a decent  
transmitter! You could easily spend twice the money plus hours of time trying to  
gather the equivalent parts from catalogs and still need to make your own circuit  
board.  
FT146 CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION  
Basic overview: The FT146 is a crystal controlled FM transmitter that uses a  
varactor modulated crystal oscillator followed by a 9 times frequency multiplier  
and power amplifier. Test points are built-in for easy alignment.  
Detailed description: Transistor Q1 functions as a Colpitts crystal oscillator  
whose frequency is determined by Y1 and varactor diode D1. Transistor Q2  
functions as a buffer amplifier to isolate the crystal oscillator from other portions  
of the circuit. The crystal oscillator frequency is multiplied by 3 (tripled) in  
transistor Q3. Frequency multipliers are nothing more than amplifiers that  
produce lots of distortion! In this case we're interested in having enough  
distortion so that the third harmonic is fairly strong. We "pick-off" or filter the  
third harmonic with a band pass filter, comprised of L9,13 and capacitors  
C28,21,22,16. This allows transistor Q4 to be driven only by the third harmonic  
of the crystal frequency - in this case, around 48 MHz. Q4 is another tripler,  
multipling up the 48 MHz to 144 MHz. Inductors L5,11 and capacitors  
C25,17,18,10 for the band pass filter for the three times output frequency.  
From here on out, we're working at the actual carrier frequency and use a  
couple of transistors to amplify the signal up to a 4 to 6 watt level. Transistor Q5  
boosts the signal to the 250 mW range and Q6 then produces the full power  
output. Impedances must be matched between stages to allow for maximum  
power transfer, and that's the function of a couple of coils that are hand wound.  
A low pass filter follows the final amplifier to limit out of band signals (remember  
those multiplier stages?). Modulation is accomplished by varying the  
capacitance of varactor diode, D1. This varying capacitance shifts the frequency  
of the crystal ever so slightly causing a frequency shift, which is FM or  
Frequency Modulation. And yes - this frequency shift does get multiplied as it  
travels through the multiplier stages. The signal used to vary the varactor diode  
is our desired audio modulation. Op-amp U1 functions as a microphone  
amplifier, clipper and low pass filter. We clip the microphone signal to prevent  
overmodulation and limit the maximum modulation frequency since either one  
could cause our transmitter to "splash" into adjacent channels.  
To make our transmitter compatible with standard ICOM/YAESU style  
microphones we use transistor Q7, which senses when current is being drawn  
by the microphone. When the mike is keyed, the current drawn turns on Q7  
which applies bias to transistor Q1, allowing it to operate and thus the rig goes  
FT146 5  
 
into transmit. There is no need to control the voltage to any other transistors  
since they all operate class "C". A class C amplifier draws no current unless it is  
driven, so there is no need to switch the later stages on and off.  
FT146 2 METER FM TRANSMITTER KIT PARTS LIST  
Capacitors:  
1 2 or 2.2 pf disc capacitor (marked 2 or 2.2 or 2K or 2.2K) [C17]  
1 4.7 or 5 pf disc capacitor (marked 4.7 or 5 or 4.7K or 5K) [C21]  
2 10 pf disc capacitor (marked 10 or 10K) [C19,20]  
1 12 pf disc capacitor (marked 12 or 12K) [C25]  
1 15 pf disc capacitor (marked 15 or 15K) [C27]  
1 22 pf disc capacitor (marked 22 or 22K) [C18]  
3 39 pf disc capacitor (marked 39 or 39K) [C13,15,28]  
2 47 pf disc capacitor (marked 47 or 47K) [C10,22]  
1 56 pf disc capacitor (marked 56 or 56K) [C14]  
6 100 pf disc capacitor (marked 100 or 101) [C6,11,16,24,26,29]  
1 470 pf disc capacitor (marked 470 or 471) [C30]  
13 .001 uf disc capacitor (marked .001 or 1000 or 102)  
[C7,8,23,31,32,33,37,38,39,40,41,44,45]  
6 .01 uf disc capacitor (marked .01 or 10 nf or 103) [C1,3,4,5,35,36]  
1 .1 uf disc capacitor (marked .1 or 104) [C9]  
2 10 uf electrolytic capacitor [C34,42]  
1 100 to 220 uf electrolytic capacitor [C2]  
2 Trimmer capacitor, 30 pf [C12,43]  
Resistors and potentiometers:  
1 2 ohm resistor (red-black-gold) [R6]  
1 51 ohm resistor (green-brown-black) [R10]  
1 100 ohm resistor (brown-black-brown) [R28]  
2 270 ohm resistor (red-violet-brown) [R8,20]  
2 470 ohm resistor (yellow-violet-brown) [R7,25]  
7 1 K ohm resistor (brown-black-red) [R1,2,4,9,11,22,29]  
2 2.2 K ohm resistor (red-red-red) [R21,24]  
6 10 K ohm resistor (brown-black-orange) [R12,15,16,23,26,27]  
3 47 K ohm resistor (yellow-violet-orange) [R3,5,17]  
3 100 K ohm resistor (brown-black-yellow) [R14,18,19]  
1 5 K ohm potentiometer [R13]  
FT146 6  
 
Inductors and ferrite cores:  
2 Shielded can tunable inductor (marked 007007) [L9,13]  
2 Tunable inductor (pink plastic body) [L5,11]  
2 6 hole ferrite bead core [L1,6]  
2 Small ferrite bead core [L10,12]  
2 Aluminum coil shield cans [for L5,11]  
Semiconductor devices:  
1 1N4002 style black epoxy diode [D5]  
2 1N4148 style signal diode (glass body with black band) [D2,4]  
1 BB609 varactor diode (black body with yellow color band) [D1]  
1 Zener diode, 6.2 volt (gray body with black band) [D3]  
2 2N3904 NPN transistor (marked 2N3904) [Q1,2]  
1 2SC2498 or 2SC2570A VHF/UHF NPN transistor (marked C2498 or  
2570A) [Q3]  
1 NE021 flat pack NPN transistor (marked 021) [Q4]  
1 2N3866 metal can NPN transistor [Q5]  
1 SD1127 metal can RF power transistor [Q6]  
1 2N3906 style PNP transistor (marked 221334) [Q7]  
1 LM358 dual op-amp IC chip [U1]  
1 LED Light emitting diode [LED1]  
Special components:  
1 Crystal 16.280 MHz (for 146.520 MHz output) [Y1]  
1 5 pin DIN connector [P1]  
1 RCA style phono jack [J1]  
1 2.5MM sub-miniature phono jack [J2]  
1 Push-on aluminum heat sink  
1 5/16" x 20 bolt (to wind coils on)  
1 1/2 feet enameled magnet wire  
1 1/2 feet tinned buss wire  
Required, not supplied:  
12 volt DC power source at 1 amp minimum  
Microphone  
Dummy load or suitable antenna  
Enclosure such as the Ramsey CFT  
FT146 7  
 
RAMSEY Learn-As-You-Build KIT ASSEMBLY:  
There are over 200 solder connections on the FT146 printed circuit board. That  
means your work could be 99% perfect and you could STILL have 2 or 3 cold  
solder points or solder bridges. Since this circuit is more sophisticated than a  
direct-conversion HF receiver or a CW HF transmitter, a beginner or casual  
amateur could have a harder time tracing a problem due to a poor solder  
connection. Therefore, PLEASE take us seriously when we say that good  
soldering is essential to the proper operation of your transmitter!  
Use a 25-watt soldering pencil with a clean, sharp tip.  
Use only rosin-core solder intended for electronics use.  
Use bright lighting, a magnifying lamp or bench-style magnifier may be  
helpful.  
Do your work in stages, taking breaks to check your work.  
Carefully brush away wire cuttings so they don't lodge between solder  
connections.  
We have a two-fold "strategy" for the order of the following kit assembly steps.  
First, we install parts in physical relationship to each other, so there's minimal  
chance of inserting wires into wrong holes. Second, whenever possible, we  
install in an order that fits our "Learn-As-You Build" Kit building philosophy.  
For each part, our word "Install" always means these steps:  
1. Pick the correct part value to start with.  
2. Insert it into the correct PC board location.  
3. Orient it correctly, follow the PC board drawing and the written direc  
tions for all parts - especially when there's a right way AND a  
wrong way to solder it in. (Diode bands, electrolytic capacitor  
polarity, transistor shapes, dotted or notched ends of IC's, and  
so forth.)  
4. Solder all connections unless directed otherwise. Use enough heat  
and solder flow for clean, shiny, completed connections. Don't  
be afraid of any pen-style soldering iron having enough heat to  
damage a component.  
5. Trim or "nip" the excess component lead wire after soldering.  
NOTE: Save some of the longer wire scraps nipped from resistors and  
capacitors. These will be used to form wire jumpers (JMP1, etc.) to be soldered  
in just like parts during these construction steps.  
Now, let's start building!  
1. Install J1, the RCA-style antenna jack. Solder all 4 points.  
2. Install P1, the 5 pin DIN jack.  
FT146 8  
 
3. Install J2, the subminiature phone jack. Solder all three points. Be  
gentle and patient in inserting, so as not to damage the solder tabs.  
4. Install R13, 5K trimmer pot. This is the modulation adjustment control.  
5. Install U1, LM358 op-amp IC chip. In installing the IC, you may wish to  
use an 8-pin DIP socket rather than soldering the IC directly to the board.  
Reasons for doing this might include the peace of mind of being able to  
easily replace the IC if ever necessary. However, please be aware that we  
have seen more service problems with improper socket insertion than from  
soldering in IC's. Even if this is your first IC, don't be afraid to use enough  
heat to make 8 clean connections, but DO be sure to orient the end marked  
by a band or dot correctly. Before soldering, make sure that the IC or  
socket is perfectly flat against the top of the PC board and that all pins are  
properly in each PC board hole. This little 8 pin chip contains two separate  
amplifiers and is used to amplify the microphone output and process the  
audio for transmisssion.  
6. Install C39, .001 uf disc capacitor (marked .001, 1 nf or 102).  
7. Install C38, .001 uf disc capacitor (marked .001, 1 nf or 102).  
8. Install C36, .01 uf disc capacitor (marked .01 or 10 nf or 103).  
9. Install R14, 100K ohm (brown-black-yellow).  
10. Install R18, 100K ohm (brown-black-yellow).  
11. Install R19, 100K ohm (brown-black-yellow).  
12. Install C41, .001 uf disc capacitor (marked .001, 1 nf or 102).  
13. Install R20, 270 ohm (red-violet-brown).  
14. Install C42, 10 uf electrolytic capacitor. Electrolytic capacitors are  
polarized with a (+) and a (-) lead and must be installed in the correct  
orientation. Ordinarily, only the negative side is marked on the capacitor  
body with a dark band and the (-) sign clearly shown, while PC boards will  
usually show the (+) hole location. Use care to ensure proper polarity.  
15. Install JMP2, jumper wire. Use a piece of wire clipped from a previously  
installed component bent into a small "U" or wire staple shape. Jumpers act  
as electronic "bridges" carrying signals over PC board traces underneath.  
16. Install another wire jumper, JMP1.  
17. Install C34, 10 uf electrolytic capacitor. Remember to observe correct  
polarity.  
18. Install C37, .001 uf disc capacitor (marked .001, 1 nf or 102).  
19. Install R17, 47 K ohm (yellow-violet-orange).  
20. Install C40, .001 disc capacitor (marked .001, 1 nf or 102).  
FT146 9  
 
21. Install R15, 10K ohm (brown-black-orange).  
22. Install C33, .001 uf disc capacitor (marked .001, 1 nf or 102).  
23. Install R16, 10K ohm, (brown-black-orange).  
Time for a breather and progress check. So far, we've built up the audio section  
of our transmitter, from microphone amplifier to low pass filter to buffer stage -  
not bad for less than an hour! Give a quick check to see that you've installed all  
parts in the correct places and that all joints are soldered nicely with no  
splashes or bridges.  
24. Install R24, 2.2K ohm (red-red-red).  
25. Install R23, 10K ohm (brown-black-orange).  
26. Identify Q7, a 2N3906 PNP transistor (marked 221334). Do not  
confuse it with the other transistors in your kit. Position Q7's large flat side  
as shown in the parts layout diagram. Press the transistor snugly into the  
PC board so that only a minimum amount of wire lead is exposed above  
the board. In soldering, do not be afraid of using enough heat to make a  
good solid connection.  
27. Install R21, 2.2K ohm (red-red-red).  
28. Install C45, .001 uf (marked .001, 1 nf or 102).  
29. Install R25, 470 ohm (yellow-violet-brown).  
30. Install R11, 1K ohm (brown-black-red).  
31. Install R27, 10K ohm (brown-black-orange).  
32. Install R12, 10K ohm (brown-black-orange).  
33. Install D1, BB609 varactor diode (small black body with yellow band).  
Varactor diodes act as voltage variable capacitors. In his case, D1's  
capacitance is varied by the amplified voltage from your microphone,  
causing the crystal oscillator's frequency to change - in exact step with your  
voice. Voila, FM or Frequency Modulation!  
34. Install C35, .01 uf (marked .01 or 103 or 10 nf).  
35. Install C32, .001 uf disc capacitor (marked .001, 1 nf or 102).  
36. Install R26, 10K ohm (brown-black-orange).  
37. Install R5, 47K ohm (yellow-violet-orange).  
38. Install C24, 100 pf disc capacitor (marked 100 or 101).  
39. Install C30, 470 pf disc capacitor (marked 470 or 471).  
40. Install R8, 270 ohm (red-violet-brown).  
FT146 10  
 
41. Install R7, 470 ohm (yellow-violet-brown).  
42. Identify Q1, a 2N3904 NPN transistor (marked 2N3904). Install Q1,  
observing correct placement of the flat side.  
43. Install Q2, another 2N3904 NPN transistor (marked 2N3904).Observe  
correct placement of the flat side.  
44. Install C27, 15 pf disc capacitor (marked 15 or 15K).  
45. Install trimmer capacitor, C43 (black body with orange top). This  
trimmer is used for setting the FT146 exactly on frequency.  
46. Install Y1, crystal. This is the "heart" of the FM transmitter, producing  
the initial signal which is multiplied and amplified up to the final transmitted  
signal. Notice that there are two holes "kitty-corner" around Y1. These  
holes are used to supply power to the optional crystal oven; they are not  
used in the standard FT146 kit.  
47. Install D3, zener diode (gray body with black band). A zener diode  
functions as a voltage regulator since it has the property of holding the  
voltage across it constant. In this case we wish to hold the voltage to the  
crystal oscillator steady to keep us on frequency, even with a poorly  
regulated disc capacitor power supply.  
48. Install R28, 100 ohm (brown-black-brown).  
49. Install R1, 1K ohm (brown-black-red).  
50. Install JMP3, another wire jumper.  
51. Install C3, .01 uf (marked .01 or 103 or 10 nf).  
52. Install C9, .1 uf disc capacitor (marked .1 or 104).  
53. Install C23, .001 uf disc capacitor (marked .001, 1 nf or 102).  
54. Install C44, .001 uf disc capacitor (marked .001, 1 nf or 102).  
55. Install C8, .001 uf disc capacitor (marked .001, 1 nf or 102).  
56. Install C5, .01 uf disc capacitor (marked .01 or 10 nf or 103).  
This completes assembly of the crystal oscillator section of our FM transmitter.  
If so inclined, we could connect up some power and actually "fire-up" the PC  
board so far. We'd only be producing a signal at 1/9 of the carrier frequency  
though, since we've yet to build the multiplier stages.  
57. Install R3, 47K ohm (yellow-violet-orange).  
58. Install Q3, 2SC2498 or 2SC2570A NPN VHF transistor (marked C2498  
or 2570A). Position the flat side as shown on the parts layout.  
59. Install C28, 39 pf disc capacitor (marked 39 or 39K).  
FT146 11  
 
60. Install C21, 4.7 or 5 pf disc capacitor (marked 4.7 or 5 or 4.7K or 5K).  
61. Install L9, slug tuned shielded coil (marked 007007). This coil is part of  
the first tripler section. It is tuned to the third harmonic of the crystal  
oscillator.  
62. Install L13, another slug tuned shielded coil (marked 007007). This coil  
is also part of the first tripler section.  
63. Install TP1. Select a 1K resistor, R9 (brown-black-red). Trim back one  
lead wire to a length of inch. Bend this wire into a small loop as shown. This  
loop will act as a convenient point to connect a test probe for tuning up your  
transmitter. Insert the resistor into the PC board and hold it carefully while  
you solder it to the board.  
64. Install R6, 2 ohm resistor (red-black-gold).  
65. Install C29, 100 pf disc capacitor (marked 100 or 101).  
66. Install C22, 47 pf disc capacitor (marked 47 or 47K).  
67. Locate Q4, NE021, the tiny black transistor disc stuck to a piece of  
paper (marked 021). Carefully remove it from its protective paper and bend  
all three leads down 90 degrees from its body. Notice how one lead is  
longer than the others, that lead (the collector) must be installed exactly as  
shown in the drawing - pointing towards L5. Set Q4 into the PC board  
making sure that its body is snugly against the PC board and positioned  
correctly. You should be able to read the  
Test point loop  
printed markings on the part, if you cannot,  
then you have the transistor flipped over.  
Solder and trim all three leads.  
Resistor  
PC board  
68. Install R4, 1K ohm (brown-black-red).  
69. Install C16, 100 pf disc capacitor (100 or 101).  
70. Install C25, 12 pf disc capacitor (marked 12 or 12K).  
71. Install L5, pink color slug tuned inductor. Make sure you place the coil  
body right up against the PC board snugly.  
72. Install aluminum coil shield can cover  
over L5.  
Markings on this  
side  
73. Install R10, 51 ohm (green-brown-  
black).  
021  
K24  
This lead towards  
L5  
74. Install C31, .001 uf disc capacitor  
(marked .001 or 102).  
75. Install C17, 2 or 2.2 pf disc capacitor (marked 2 or 2.2).  
Nine parts need handmade preparation before installation in the transmitter RF  
FT146 12  
 
stages of your transmitter. We recommend that you get them ready for  
installation before assembling the Driver and Final stages. If you prefer to  
proceed with those stages, winding coils as you go, that's fine, too, as long as  
you realize that all coil making details are provided in this section.  
The wire used for L1, 6, 10, and 12 is the smaller gauge enameled wire  
supplied with your kit. We give you plenty but if you mess up, you can get a  
whole 50' spool of it from Radio Shack (278-1341).  
76. Winding L1 and L6 RF chokes (two identical units ): Examine the two  
cylindrical ferrite cores provided in the kit.Notice that there are six holes at  
either end of these cylinder shaped units, arranged in two groups of three.  
Cut 6" of bus wire and following the drawing, thread the wire, pulling each  
turn gently tight. Tin each end with solder by holding your soldering iron  
and solder on the wire ends until the enamel insulation melts away and the  
copper wire underneath coats nicely with solder. Tin all the way up to the  
ferrite core body. Your finished RF chokes should look like this: Do not  
install either part yet.  
77. Winding L10 and L12: Locate the two small black ferrite beads  
provided in the kit. Cut 2" of enameled wire and following the drawing,  
thread 3 turns through the bead hole, pulling each turn "gently tight." Tin  
each end with solder. Tin all the way up to the ferrite core body. Your  
finished bead chokes should look like this: Do not install either part yet.  
78. Winding L2 and L7: Use the heavy gauge tinned bus wire in your kit for  
these coils. Wind these coils on the threads of the provided 5/16"X20 bolt  
to assure perfect forming of the coils. (You wondered what that big bolt was  
for - didn't you!) Both coils are 11/2 turns. They appear to be 2 turns if  
viewed from the top. They will fit neatly into the PC board without any  
excessive bending or stretching.  
79. Winding L3 and L4: Use the same wire and  
procedure as used above for these coils. Each coil  
is 2 1/2 turns and will appear to be 3 turns if  
viewed from the top.  
6 hole ferrite  
core  
enameled wire  
tin ends  
3 turns through  
center  
enameled wire  
tin ends  
FT146 13  
 
FT146 14  
 
FT146 15  
 
The "legs" or leads for inserting L2, L7, L3 and L4 should be about " long.  
These coils should sit about 1/8" maximum above the PC board when soldered.  
80. Install L12, one of the small 3 turn ferrite bead RF chokes you wound.  
Pull it up snug against the PC board and solder.  
81. Install TP2, another test point. Select a 1K resistor, R2 (brown-black-  
red). Trim back one lead wire to a length of inch. Bend this wire into a  
small loop as shown. This loop acts as a convenient point to connect a test  
probe for tuning up your transmitter. Insert the resistor into the PC board  
and hold it carefully while you solder it to  
Test point loop  
the board.  
Resistor  
82. Install C18, 22 pf disc capacitor  
PC board  
(marked 22 or 22K).  
83. Install C10, 47 pf disc capacitor (marked 47 or 47K).  
84. Install Q5, 2N3866 metal can RF transistor. Be sure you press the  
transistor case flush against the PC board and solder securely.  
85. Install L6, a 6 hole ferrite bead choke wound previously.  
86. Install C4, .01 uf disc capacitor (marked .01 or 10 nf or 103).  
87. Install L11, pink slug tuned coil.  
88. Install aluminum shield can cover over L11.  
89. Install C19, 10 pf disc capacitor (marked 10 or 10K).  
90. Install C20, another 10 pf disc capacitor.  
91. Install L7, a 1 turn coil wound previously. Ensure that the coil is seated  
flush against the PC board and not mounted with long leads up in the air -  
which would add undesired additional inductance.  
92. Install C11, 100 pf disc capacitor (marked 100 or 101).  
93. Prepare a inch long wire jumper from the heavy tinned bus wire used  
for winding coils previously. Install this jumper in the L8 location on the PC  
board. This wire must sit flat against the PC board and not up above.  
Believe it or not, this wire is actually an inductor providing inpedance  
matching into Q6.  
94. Install C26, 100 pf disc  
capacitor (marked 100 or 101).  
Heavy buss  
wire jumper  
Wire sits flat  
against board  
95. Install L10, small ferrite  
bead RF choke you wound  
earlier.  
(not a scrap component lead)  
PC board  
1/2 inch  
96. Install C6, 100 pf disc  
capacitor (marked 100 or 101).  
FT146 16  
 
97. Install D4, 1N4148 style signal diode (glass body with black band).  
Observe correct orientation of the banded end.  
98. Install TP3, the last test point. Select a 1K resistor, R29 (brown-black-  
red). Trim back one lead wire to a length of inch. Bend this wire into a small  
loop as before. Insert the resistor into the PC board and hold it carefully  
while you solder it to the board.  
99. Install R22, 1K ohm (brown-black-red).  
100. Install C15, 39 pf disc capacitor (marked 39 or 39K).  
101. Install L4, 2 turn coil wound previously. Be sure it sits flush against the  
PC board.  
102. Install C14, 56 pf disc capacitor (marked 56 or 56K).  
103. Install L3, another 2 turn coil. Be sure it sits flush against the PC board.  
104. Install C13, 39 pf disc capacitor (marked 39 or 39K).  
105. Install C7, .001 uf disc capacitor (marked .001 or 1000 or 102).  
106. Install C12, trimmer capacitor (black body with orange top).  
107. Install L2, 1 turn coil wound previously. Ensure it sits flush.  
108. Install L1, 6 hole ferrite bead RF choke you wound.  
109. Install C1, .01 uf disc capacitor (marked .01 or 103 or 10 nf).  
110. Locate Q6, SD1127 RF power transistor. This transistor mounts  
somewhat differently from all the other parts. Turn over the PC board and  
set the transistor snugly into the large hole and bend the leads over and into  
the indicated holes. The leads should be as short as possible without  
shorting against the transistor case. Solder the three transistor leads. See  
drawing in the step below.  
111. Now we call for something unusual - soldering the transistor case to the  
PC board. Run a neat "flow" of solder around the transistor case to the PC  
board ground plane. The SD1127  
power transistor is designed by  
the manufacturer to be soldered  
directly to a PC board ground  
plane for heat sinking and proper  
Solder can to PC  
board  
Solder side of  
board  
Component side of  
VHF performance. This part is different from other metal can transistors in  
that the case is connected internally to the emitter rather than the collector.  
This provides much higher gain at VHF frequencies.  
FT146 17  
 
112. Install C2, 100 to 220 uf electrolytic capacitor. Be sure to observe  
polarity - especially with this part since it is directly across the power supply  
and if reversed, could overheat so fast, so much that it could explode!  
113. Install D5, 1N4002 style black epoxy diode, observe correct orientation  
of the banded end.  
114. Install D2, 1N4148 style signal diode (glass body with black band).  
Observe correct orientation of the banded end.  
115. Locate the aluminum press on heat sink and slip it on to Q6.  
116. Install the LED transmit  
indicator, LED1. Correctly identify the  
cathode side lead which is the  
shorter of the two. The shorter lead  
Short lead here  
Leave leads long  
R13  
goes into the hole nearest R13.  
Install the LED, leaving full lead length extending above the board so that  
the LED can be positioned later into the front panel indicator hole.  
117. Install a wire jumper between points A and C on the PC board. This  
allows the use of an Icom/Yaesu/Radio Shack microphone plugged into  
jack J2.  
This completes our assembly of the FT146 two meter FM transmitter. Now's a  
good time to give your masterpiece a good going over, being especially alert for  
any:  
bridged over solder joints,  
misplaced components,  
transistors or diodes placed incorrectly,  
electrolytic capacitors installed incorrectly.  
TESTING, ALIGNMENT AND ADJUSTMENT  
To prepare your FT146 for testing, you'll need the following items:  
1. A suitable microphone of the Icom, Yaesu or Radio Shack variety.  
Other microphones may be used providing you mate them correctly to the  
FT146. Since there are such a wide variety of microphone types and styles,  
we cannot provide exact hook-up wiring for every case. Hook-up is very  
simple, follow the basic instructions in the "Microphone Considerations"  
section.  
2. A hexagonal, non-metallic alignment tool. If you do not already have a  
set of plastic or nylon coil alignment tools and do expect to build more ham  
radio or electronic hobby projects, such tools are worth having and can be  
found inexpensively at any electronics store including Radio Shack. While a  
metal Hex key wrench will fit the coil slug, the metal itself will detune the  
FT146 18  
 
coil drastically whenever it is inserted into the coil. You may use a metal  
hex key if you are aware of this effect and are willing to remove the hex  
key from the coil after each adjustment. Although not recommended, with a  
little patience and sandpaper, a useable tool may be formed from a piece of  
wood or plastic rod. If you do make your own tool, be very careful to fully  
engage the slug because they are very brittle and any wedging or skewed  
turning will break it!  
3. Small flat blade screwdriver or alignment tool for trimmer capacitors  
C12, C43, and modulation pot R13.  
4. A suitable 50 ohm dummy load.  
5. Proper cable to connect from FT146 transmitter (RCA phono) to  
dummy load.  
6. A 12 volt DC power source of at least 1 amp.  
7. A digital multimeter.  
With all the above set-up and handy, let's get testing!  
1. Using your hex head tuning tool, back out the coil slugs in L9, L13, L5,  
L11 even with the top of their plastic coil form. If a slug binds, gently rock it  
back and forth till it loosens up. Be very careful not to crack the slug as  
they are brittle. Slowly rotate each slug clockwise into the coil form the  
indicated number of turns:  
L9: 2 turns  
L13: 3 turns  
L5: 8 turns  
L11: 4 turns  
2. Rotate modulation control R13 fully counter-clockwise.  
3. Apply 12 volts to the FT146 transmitter board. Its a good idea to fuse  
the power to the FT146, 1 to 2 amps will do.  
4. Connect a proper 50 ohm dummy load to antenna connector J1. In a  
pinch, a light bulb may be used - see the section "Verifying Transmitter RF  
Power Output".  
5. Plug the microphone into mike jack J2. If you have no microphone, you  
may at least "key" the transmitter by jumpering the "PTT" point behind DIN  
jack P1 to ground.  
6. Hook your multimeter to TP1 and set the meter to the 200 mVDC, (0.2  
VDC range).  
7. Key the microphone and adjust L9 and L13 for maximum indication on  
TP1. No more than a turn or two is needed. You will have to go back and  
forth between these coils as they interact. You should get a reading of at  
least 50 mV.  
FT146 19  
 
8. Move your meter probe over to TP2, key the transmitter and adjust L5  
and L11 for maximum negative reading. Once again, go back and forth  
between the two coils. You should get a reading of at least -120 mV. It is  
very important to tune for the best peak as this will ensure proper  
transmitter operation.  
9. You should now be able to see RF power at the output antenna jack,  
J1. Adjust capacitor C12 for maximum RF power output.  
10. Slightly spread or compress coils L3 and L4 to maximize output power.  
Power should be at least 4 watts with a 12 volt power source.  
11. While speaking into the microphone, slowly rotate modulation control  
R13 clockwise for best sounding modulation. Ideally, a two-way radio  
service monitor should be used to adjust this control.  
12. If a frequency counter or service monitor is available, adjust capacitor  
C43 for exactly 146.520 MHz. If you do not have such equipment, use a  
receiver with a center tune meter.  
This completes the alignment of your FT146. The PC board should be mounted  
into a protective enclosure to guard against accidental contact. The Ramsey  
CFT case set provides an ideal, perfectly sized and matched case for your  
FT146. Study the following sections regarding the DC power supply and RF  
power indication, and operate your transmitter in accord with good amateur  
radio practice.  
YOUR POWER SUPPLY AND RF OUTPUT POWER  
For optimum performance, one or two volts of extra DC supply power can make  
quite a difference in any transmitter. For example, two lantern batteries in  
series, or 8 "D cells" will obviously provide "about 12 volts" with sufficient  
current capability for casual operating. For maximum RF output power, use a  
supply of 13 to 14 volts DC. The easiest method is to place two fresh "D cells"  
in series with your power source, if a full 13.6-15 volts DC is not available. A  
word of caution concerning wall plug style AC adapter power supplies: They are  
not suitable for operation of your transmitter due to their poor regulation, AC  
ripple content and RFI suseptibility.  
If your supply voltage is in the 11-12 volt range, you can expect a 600 to 800  
ma current flow and about 4 watts of the RF output power. With a solid 13 to 14  
volt supply, you can expect about 1 amp current draw and up to 5 or 6 watts of  
RF output power.  
VERIFYING TRANSMITTER RF OUTPUT  
The most important thing to know is whether your transmitter is delivering some  
measurable and reassuring level of RF power to the antenna. The sound of the  
FT146 20  
 
transmitter keying in a receiver is of some help, but even the simplest crystal  
oscillator can send a fine signal into your neighbor's receiver.  
Ideally, you have a small RF wattmeter, already inserted in the antenna line,  
capable of accurately measuring low output power in watts. And it cost you less  
than what you paid for the transmitter kit. Right? In the words of Wayne from  
"Wayne's World"... Not! So here are a few other ideas for you to try.  
Saying the same thing another way, we assume you know that accurate,  
commercially built RF wattmeters cost much more than what you paid for this  
Ramsey transmitter kit.  
Since this solid-state transmitter does not require lots of critical tuning or  
adjustments, a periodic power output check-up should suffice. If you do not own  
or have access to a low-level RF power meter, use a trick that is decades old,  
the common flashlight or panel bulb. All you need to know is the basic  
differences between bright, superbright, dim, unlit and burned out! Using a light  
bulb to check power output is also a satisfying way to put Ohm's Law to work.  
Your Radio Shack catalog specifies operating voltage and current in  
milliamperes for a variety of small replacement lamps. It may be worth your  
while to make up a simple plug-in "output tester" for your transmitter, a male  
RCA plug connected to a socket for the bulb of your choice or even soldered  
directly to the bulb. RF voltage levels in this transmitter can vary from 2 to 25  
volts RMS depending on various factors. Typically, 1 watt power levels are  
achieved in 5 to 7 volts RMS volts range, and 5 watts at 15 to 20 volts. A good  
test bulb for this level is the PR-4 flange-style flashlight bulb or the type 243  
bulb with screw-in body. Both are rated to give normal brilliance at 2.33 volts,  
drawing 270 milliamps of current. Using Ohm's law, P=IE, we see that normal  
brilliance requires 2.33 volts x .270 amperes for .62 watts of DC power  
consumption. We can conclude that even a watt or so of RF should light this  
bulb reasonably well. A type PR-12 bulb is suitable for checking RF outputs in  
the 1-3 watt range. Try it out!  
Please remember, though, that a flashlight bulb does NOT present the proper  
load impedance to the transmitter output, so theoretical calculations based on  
the bulb`s rating can only be approximate. For example, the PR-4 at full  
brilliance presents only an 8.2 ohm load to the transmitter. Because of this, the  
transmitter may act "flakey" when tuning up into a light bulb, and by all means  
you should not consider a light bulb an accurate indicator of the FT146's  
performance!  
If ANY flashlight bulb lights up when connected to the antenna jack of this  
transmitter, you can be satisfied that you have RF output power at least equal  
to the DC power rating of the bulb you are using. If you burn out your bulb,  
rejoice and put your rig on the air!  
FT146 21  
 
Amateur radio magazines and handbooks provide a variety of circuits for RF  
wattmeters and relative field-strength indicators, including methods of using  
your VOM as an indicating device. CQ magazine for March 1990 offers an  
article by KB4ZGC on how to make a highly accurate yet inexpensive dummy  
load and wattmeter capable of showing 1/10-watt differences in RF power. If  
you use a wattmeter characterized for the HF frequency region, it will not give  
accurate results at the much higher two meter frequencies, although it will be  
quite adequate for go/no-go testing.  
MAXIMIZING RF POWER OUTPUT  
The simplest way to ensure maximum reasonable power output without  
component damage is to run the DC voltage in the 13 to 14 volt range,  
observing a maximum limit of +15VDC. Typically, an automobile power source  
is 13.6 volts when the engine is running and most mobile rigs are specified at  
this voltage level.  
IMPORTANT NOTE: If you are experimenting with this transmitter and see a  
sudden and massive increase in power output and DC current, you have not  
reached the promised land or created a 25 watt transmitter! Sudden surges like  
that are a sure sign of amplifier self-oscillation. Kill the DC power supply  
immediately, because your Q6 RF power transistor is heading to self-  
destruction while probably interfering with every TV set in the neighborhood! A  
poorly matched antenna along with higher supply voltages is usually  
responsible for this occuring. Any prolonged "parasitic" emissions may also  
overheat and destroy other components in the amplifier stages.  
TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS  
The transmitter is very easy to troubleshoot, providing you use some simple  
common sense. If you cannot get any readings on the test points or RF power  
output, check and see if the crystal oscillator is running - how? Well, take a look  
at the crystal and see the frequency marked on it, it should be 16.280 MHz (1/9  
of 146.52 MHz), right in the middle of the HF shortwave broadcast band, easily  
received on any shortwave radio. You should be able to "hear" the oscillator  
running quite easily.  
If crystal oscillator operation is confirmed, let's move on a step further. The  
oscillator is followed by a tripler stage, and 3 times 16.280 MHz is 48.840 MHz.  
Once again this signal can be tuned on a nearby receiver such as a scanner.  
One more tripler follows and that moves us up to the final 146.520 MHz output  
frequency, easily tuned on a two meter rig. This proceedure will lead us to the  
final amplifier stages where we can pretty much do a thourough visual  
inspection.  
Common problems to look for are solder bridges or interchanged capacitors -  
FT146 22  
 
"hum-m-m-, that's not a .001 uf where a 100 pf should be is it?"  
If there is a problem in getting the modulation working, a scope or audio  
amplifier will allow tracing down any problem in short order. The microphone  
audio is amplifier by about 350 times in U1:B. You should see at least a volt of  
audio at the output (pin 7) of U1:B. A low pass filter follows U1:B, you should  
still see at least a volt of audio at pin1 of U1. From there, the audio drives the  
varactor diode D1.  
How about keying of the transmitter? Check to be sure that the microphone is  
switching to ground when keyed. This closure to ground causes PNP transistor  
Q7 to turn on, switching +12 volts to its collector. This +12 volts lights the LED  
and applies bias to the crystal oscillator.  
If you hear a AC hum on the transmitted signal, usual causes are RF getting  
back into the power supply or a bad VSWR on the antenna.  
These short checks in no way detail any and all problems that can rear their  
ugly head, but should get you on the way to solving most errors. We'd like to be  
able to forsee a problem a builder may encounter, but the sheer number of  
parts and the permutations and combinations of installing them makes an list of  
precise, exact solutions impossible. If you run into a roadblock, gather all your  
thoughts and information and give a call to the factory for some help. If you  
elect to enlist the help of a local expert, great - but be sure the expert is  
qualified - no need for having someone lead you down the wrong path!  
Remember you may always return the kit for factory service, and there's no  
charge if the problem is our fault. See the warranty on the last page of this  
manual.  
MICROPHONE CONSIDERATIONS  
During assembly, the FT146 was jumpered for using an Icom style microphone  
plugged into the mike jack J2. You may also use the rear panel 5 pin DIN jack,  
P1. If you decide to do so, change the "Audio In" wire jumper to go between A  
and B. When this is done, the transmitter cannot be keyed from the microphone  
and must be keyed from the PTT pin.  
FT146 23  
 
Here's a handy reference chart for the 5 pin DIN jack  
PIN #  
FUNCTION  
1
2
3
4
5
+12 VDC power input  
Power ground  
Audio input  
Audio ground  
PTT (Push-To-Talk)  
Audio level required is in the 10 to 50 mV range. PTT requires a path to ground  
of less than 10K ohms.  
OTHER ENCLOSURE RECOMMENDATIONS  
Your finished transmitter can be installed in a variety of enclosures of your own  
design and choosing. You might be planning to combine several Ramsey circuit  
boards in a single enclosure. Use of the inexpensive and attractive Ramsey  
case set will give your unit that finished look and increase its resale value.  
These sturdy black instrument cases are supplied with neatly-lettered front and  
rear panels, rubber feet and mounting screws.  
While we believe that the Ramsey enclosure option is a fine value for finishing  
off your Ramsey kit transmitter, we're happy to give you a couple of additional  
suggestions and our reasons for them. If your first goal is economy and rugged  
portability, you will find that the circuit board can be mounted nicely in a  
standard VHS videotape storage box, which also gives room for additional  
microphone, power and antenna connectors, and even a small mike. The  
connectors are easily mounted at one end of such a box. It may be necessary  
to cut away the molded posts which secure the tape cassette itself. These  
storage boxes come in several styles, so pick one that looks truly practical as a  
project enclosure.  
If you wish to accomplish RF shielding, the most economical metal enclosure  
nicely suited for Ramsey amateur kit boards is Radio Shack No. 270-253A.  
This metal utility cabinet can accommodate both a receiver and transmitter  
board, plus speaker, with room for various refinements you might like to add.  
CRYSTAL REQUIREMENTS  
The FT146 transmitter uses a crystal at 1/9 the final carrier output frequency.  
This is a fairly common type of crystal that is found in many of the older "rock-  
bound" rigs that populate many hamfest flea market tables. You may order  
additional crystals from JAN Crystal, 1-800-JAN-XTAL, specify HC-18/U holder,  
wire leads, parallel resonant, 18 pf load capacitance.  
FT146 24  
 
NOTE ON REPLACEMENT PARTS:  
If you lose or damage parts during assembly or testing, you may, of course,  
order any needed replacement parts by writing or faxing the Ramsey  
Electronics, Inc. factory. Some of the more common parts may also be picked up  
at Radio Shack or other local parts distributors. Use EXACT values when  
replacing parts. The following is a general guide to obtaining parts for your  
transceiver as quickly as possible:  
[A]: Radio Shack or local electronic parts distributor: Resistors, electrolytic  
capacitors, disc capacitors, common NPN or PNP transistors, zener diodes,  
switching diodes, hookup wire, LED, controls, antenna and microphone  
connectors.  
[B]: Order from RAMSEY ELECTRONICS: Most RF and VHF transistors, coils,  
crystals, PIN diodes, varactor diodes, trimmers, IC chips.  
[C]: U1 is a common dual op-amp made by many manufacturers and is  
commonly stocked by most parts stores. There are also acceptable "standard  
replacements" for some of the semiconductors used in the transmitter. "SK" and  
"ECG" standard replacements are stocked by local electronics parts distributors  
or may be ordered through a Radio Shack store. The following chart should help  
you make the most cost-effective choice if replacement semiconductors are  
needed. Performance of your transmitter will, in most cases, not be up to full  
spec if you decide to use a relacement device, but will get you by in a pinch.  
Part ID  
Type  
Recommended source  
RE=Ramsey, RS=Radio Shack  
RS 276-1617  
RS276-1604 or 2N3906  
ECG10, SK9139, 2N5179, or RE  
MRF901 or RE  
Q1, etc.  
Q12,13,14  
Q2, etc.  
Q3  
2N3904  
PNP 221334  
2SC2498  
NE021  
Q9  
Q8  
D
D3,D23  
D18  
D11,D12  
U1  
2N3866  
SD1127  
1N4148  
BB505  
1N4002  
6.2 V zener  
LM358  
ECG311, SK3195 or RE  
MRF237, ECG341, SK9617 or RE  
1N914, RS276-1620 (pack of 50)  
RE  
RS276-1102, 1N4003  
RS276-561  
ECG928, SK3691 or RE  
FT146 25  
 
FT146 PARTS LAYOUT DIAGRAM  
FT146 26  
 
The Ramsey Kit Warranty  
Please read carefully BEFORE calling or writing in about your kit. Most  
problems can be solved without contacting the factory.  
Notice that this is not a "fine print" warranty. We want you to understand your rights and ours too! All  
Ramsey kits will work if assembled properly. The very fact that your kit includes this new manual is  
your assurance that a team of knowledgeable people have field-tested several "copies" of this kit  
straight from the Ramsey Inventory. If you need help, please read through your manual carefully, all  
information required to properly build and test your kit is contained within the pages!  
1. DEFECTIVE PARTS: It's always easy to blame a part for a problem in your kit, Before you conclude  
that a part may be bad, thoroughly check your work. Today's semiconductors and passive components  
have reached incredibly high reliability levels, and it’s sad to say that our human construction skills  
have not! But on rare occasions a sour component can slip through. All our kit parts carry the Ramsey  
Electronics Warranty that they are free from defects for a full ninety (90) days from the date of  
purchase. Defective parts will be replaced promptly at our expense. If you suspect any part to be  
defective, please mail it to our factory for testing and replacement. Please send only the defective part  
(s), not the entire kit. The part(s) MUST be returned to us in suitable condition for testing. Please be  
aware that testing can usually determine if the part was truly defective or damaged by assembly or  
usage. Don't be afraid of telling us that you 'blew-it', we're all human and in most cases, replacement  
parts are very reasonably priced.  
2. MISSING PARTS: Before assuming a part value is incorrect, check the parts listing carefully to see  
if it is a critical value such as a specific coil or IC, or whether a RANGE of values is suitable (such as  
"100 to 500 uF"). Often times, common sense will solve a mysterious missing part problem. If you're  
missing five 10K ohm resistors and received five extra 1K resistors, you can pretty much be assured  
that the '1K ohm' resistors are actually the 'missing' 10 K parts ("Hum-m-m, I guess the 'red' band  
really does look orange!") Ramsey Electronics project kits are packed with pride in the USA. If you  
believe we packed an incorrect part or omitted a part clearly indicated in your assembly manual as  
supplied with the basic kit by Ramsey, please write or call us with information on the part you need  
and proof of kit purchase  
3. FACTORY REPAIR OF ASSEMBLED KITS:  
To qualify for Ramsey Electronics factory repair, kits MUST:  
1. NOT be assembled with acid core solder or flux.  
2. NOT be modified in any manner.  
3. BE returned in fully-assembled form, not partially assembled.  
4. BE accompanied by the proper repair fee. No repair will be undertaken until we have received the  
MINIMUM repair fee (1/2 hour labor) of $25.00, or authorization to charge it to your credit card  
account.  
5. INCLUDE a description of the problem and legible return address. DO NOT send a separate letter;  
include all correspondence with the unit. Please do not include your own hardware such as  
non-Ramsey cabinets, knobs, cables, external battery packs and the like. Ramsey  
Electronics, Inc., reserves the right to refuse repair on ANY item in which we find excessive  
problems or damage due to construction methods. To assist customers in such situations,  
Ramsey Electronics, Inc., reserves the right to solve their needs on a case-by-case basis.  
The repair is $50.00 per hour, regardless of the cost of the kit. Please understand that our technicians  
are not volunteers and that set-up, testing, diagnosis, repair and repacking and paperwork can take  
nearly an hour of paid employee time on even a simple kit. Of course, if we find that a part was  
defective in manufacture, there will be no charge to repair your kit (But please realize that our  
technicians know the difference between a defective part and parts burned out or damaged through  
improper use or assembly).  
4. REFUNDS: You are given ten (10) days to examine our products. If you are not satisfied, you may  
return your unassembled kit with all the parts and instructions and proof of purchase to the factory for  
a full refund. The return package should be packed securely. Insurance is recommended. Please do  
not cause needless delays, read all information carefully.  
FT146 27  
 
FT146 2 Meter FM Transmitter Kit  
Quick Reference Page Guide  
Introduction to the FT146 .............. 4  
Circuit Description.......................... 5  
Parts List........................................ 6  
FT146 Assembly Instructions ........ 11  
Testing and Alignment................... 19  
Parts Layout Diagram.................... 26  
Ramsey Kit Warranty..................... 27  
REQUIRED TOOLS  
Soldering Iron Ramsey WLC100  
TOTAL SOLDER POINTS  
232  
ESTIMATED ASSEMBLY  
TIME  
Thin Rosin Core Solder Ramsey RTS12  
Needle Nose Pliers Ramsey MPP4 or  
RTS05  
Beginner...............6.8 hrs  
Intermediate.........3.9 hrs  
Advanced.............2.9 hrs  
Small Diagonal Cutters Ramsey RTS04  
<OR> Technician’s Tool Kit TK405  
ADDITIONAL SUGGESTED ITEMS  
Holder for PC Board/Parts Ramsey HH3  
Desoldering Braid Ramsey RTS08  
Digital Multimeter Ramsey M133  
Price: $5.00  
Ramsey Publication No. FT146  
Assembly and Instruction manual for:  
RAMSEY MODEL NO. FT146 2 METER FM TRANSMITTER KIT  
RAMSEY ELECTRONICS, INC.  
590 Fishers Station Drive  
Victor, New York 14564  
Phone (585) 924-4560  
Fax (585) 924-4555  
 

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